Early History of the Commercial Macadamia Nut

The credit for the following brief reviews of the early history of the Macadamia Nut in Hawaii should be given to Dr. William Storey, Riverside Agricultural Experiment Station, California. His insistence that the writer was one of the few people left who knew and lived the full history of the early development of the Macadamia and that that story should he recorded has led to this account.

Bill Storey and I first met when the former Hawaii Agricultural Experiment Station decided to hire high school student employees. Undoubtedly, it was here that our future career in agriculture was determined.

We were taught the mysteries of plant propagation and learned to know many new tropical plants under the very able tutelage of Dr. Willis T, Pope, Senior Horticultural and his deportment personnel. These consisted primarily of John Castro, foreman, and a coolie from old China by the name of Ah Chong. Looking tack, this was a rather unusual experience for two boys starting out in agriculture. On the one hand we had the benefit of the knowledge of Dr. Pope, a very learned man, and on the other the exceptional plant propagation knowledge of a coolie having no formal education and unable to write his name. Though Ah Chong didn’t believe in wearing shoes, among other things he was adept at teaching Bill and me how to chew Star Plug Tobacco.

During my fourth year at high school and as student employee of the Hawaii Agricultural Experiment Station, I decided to try my hand at something that I had been told had never been successfully done before and passably could not he done. This was grafting a Macadamia Nut tree. With youthful enthusiasm and the confidence of three years of tutelage under plant propagation experts, I felt that success was a foregone certainty. An elaborate and comprehensive test was set up and executed. The reward was complete failure. I was ready to agree that the Macadamia could not be grafted. This failure, however, later proved to be a good object lesson; failure should not hr so readily accepted.

Sometime after this experience, Dr. Pope brought into the plant propagation shed a broken branch from a Macadamia Nut tree and requested that I take scions from it and graft them onto Macadamia seedlings growing in the nursery. My immediate thought was that this was a ridiculous request. Hadn’t I already proved it could not be done?

Two days later, Dr. Pope noticed that the Macadamia branch still remained where he had left it and proceeded to issue a firm hut kindly reprimand for not doing what he had asked. Although my grafting training had been thorough and at times tedious, my conviction that this would not be successful resulted in a hasty grafting of several seedlings which were put away in the greenhouse to await the certain death of the grafts. However, my early thorough and sometimes tedious grafting training must have unconsciously made me do a passably good job.

Figure 1. Macadamia tree from which seeds for first Commercial orchard were taken.

Figure 2. Ralph H. Moltzau with the first two successful Macadamia grafts.

Three weeks later, needing more room for other plants to be added to the greenhouse, the most logical thing to do was to throw out the grafted nut trees which were certainly dead by this time.

However, I suddenly became aware that a bud had opened on one of the grafts, then on another graft. Who cannot understand the mixed feelings of surprise, joy, and pride and humility of a youth upon this discovery of seeing the impossible become a reality: to have accomplished something important that no one was known to have done before.

Two growing grafts never received more tender loving care than those two specimens. What I did not know at the time was that this success had determined my future in the field of agriculture and was instrumental in making possible the later use of selected varieties for commercial purposes without which a Macadamia Nut industry could not survive.

Dr. Pope introduced me to Mr. F. S. Van Tassel, President and Manager of the Hawaiian Macadamia Nut Company, who offered me a job with his company upon graduating from high school. In the meantime, I was placed in the happy position of working with him as a consultant.

Since college offered the scientific approach to agriculture where many of my burning questions of plant life could be answered, Mr. Van Tassel generously offered to give me a place in his company after my aspirations for college had been satisfied.

My limited budget was augmented by the laboratories and personnel of the Hawaii Agricultural Experiment Station, Hawaiian Sugar Planters Association Experiment Station, Pineapple Research Institute, and my enrollment at the University of Hawaii in order to work on special problems at night in connection with the privilege of using their laboratories. Without exception the kindness, understanding and patience of all persons involved has left me with warm memories of those difficult times.

Since the first progress allows for the greatest progress when dealing with a new subject, such as the Macadamia was at that time, within a few years much know-how of its culture was gained.

From all the available information that has come to the writer’s attention over the years, it must he concluded that the distinction of being the father of the commercialized Macadamia Nut belongs to Mr. Ernest Sheldon Van Tassel. His commercialized product seems to have been the first of its kind not only in Hawaii and the United States but also in the world.

To commercialize the Macadamia Nut, orchards were planted in the prescribed American system, the nuts were processed and marketed commercially. Later as the need for expansion became evident. The Hawaiian Macadamia Nut Company, Ltd., was formed.

It was in anticipation of the first actual nut production that the Company embarked upon a vigorous program to develop the unique mechanical processing equipment needed and the formulas for processing the kernel for vacuum packing in glass. The Hawaii Agricultural Experiment Station in Honolulu, under the U. S. Department of Agriculture spearheaded this latter work. A research department was established within the company, which also continued to work with the Experiment Station.

Mr. Van Tassel came to Honolulu, Hawaii, because of failing health. Luring his stay in the Islands his health improved and he returned to the U.S. mainland hut finally decided to make his home in Hawaii.

During Van Tassel’s first visit to the Islands, he became acquainted with Mr. Gerrit P. Wilder who was one of a well established family in Hawaii and was greatly interested in the introduction of new plants in Hawaii, particularly for food purposes. In fact, it was he who introduced the Solo papaya from Barbados into Hawaii where it has become an important export crop. It was his hobby, done on his own time and with his own money. He may well he called a plant introduction philanthropist.

It was at a tea given at the Wilder home in Honolulu that Van Tassel was first introduced to the Macadamia Nut. The nuts had been home processed and he was so impressed with the delicious flavor and fines texture that he expressed the opinion this new product would have real commercial appeal and potential.

As time progressed and his health improved, Van Tassel felt an indebtedness to Hawaii and the people who had been so kind to him and began to cast around in his mind for a means of showing his appreciation to Hawaii. He remembered the Macadamia Nuts, served to him in the Wilder home and decided that if he could make these available in large quantities he would be able to introduce them to many more people and in time a new industry might develop for Hawaii.

Upon making his desire known, he was referred to Dr. Willis T. Pope, Senior Horticulturist at the Hawaii Agricultural Experiment Station. Dr. Pope had also become interested in the Macadamia Nut and lent his enthusiastic support to Van. Tassel’s desire to plant an orchard.

According to the records, Messrs. E. W. and R. A. Jordan are credited with introducing the first commercial type Macadamia Nut to Hawaii from Queensland, Australia, in 1892. The latter secured the seeds from Queensland and the former germinated them and grew the trees at his Wyli Street home in Honolulu.

There were two other introductions from Australia. One was the so-called ‘Rough Shell’’ variety brought into the Territory and planted in a reforestation project on the slopes of Mt. Tantalus, Oahu, between 1892 and 1894 by the Hawaiian Monarchy Government. It was not until the early 1930’s that this variety was recognized to be commercially inferior to the ‘‘Smooth Shell’’ variety grown by Jordan.

About 1881 MV. H. Purvis of Kukiuhalc, Hamakua District, Hawaii, is reported to have introduced and planted Macadamia Nut seed on the Island of Hawaii.

As late as1927, virtually nothing was known about the Macadamia Nut except that it was very good to eat, that a very few trees were being grown in the Islands and that the environment of the lower elevations in Hawaii appeared to he similar to that of Queensland and New Sooth Wales in Australia where the nut is indigenous. It was believed to be impossible to graft the

Macadamia so there was no such thing as grafted stock and it was difficult to collect enough seed to plant the 25-acre orchard

planned by Van Tassel. Seed from six vigorously growing trees in Jordan’s yard was used, and it is possible some "Rough Shell"

seed from Mt. Tantalus as well as some from the Hamakua District was used. Anything that would germinate was used.

For his first orchard site, Van Tassel negotiated a long lease with the Territorial Board of Agriculture and Forestry for 25 acres of government land on the western slope of the 900 ft high cinder cane called "Round Top" located just hack of the city of Honolulu. This cinder cone was a mixture of sod ranging from pure volcanic black cinders to pure volcanic ash. Brush and grasses but no trees covered it. Average rainfall was about 40 inches a year with no available irrigation water, Payment for this land consisted of an agreement by Van Tassel to plant the equivalent of not less than 400 "forest" type trees a year. Since the Macadamia was found as a forest tree in Australia it was accepted as a forest tree to satisfy the terms of the lease even though it was to he planted in a commercial orchard pattern. With the windbreak trees of Eucalyptus Robusta and short leaf Ironwood planted to shelter the nut trees, the provisions of the lease were well satisfied. Mr. Charles Judd, of an old respected Island family, was President of the Board of Agriculture and Forestry at that time and much credit should be given for his interest, cooperation, and foresight in working closely with Van Tassel and making this plant site available. As orchard lands go this was really a poor site because of its poor soil, low rainfall arid steep slopes. However, there was no other choice since all the better lands were committed to other crops and were not available tinder any conditions. At that time in Hawaii’s history anything other than cattle ranching, sugar, pineapple and a relatively few acres devoted to truck crops was given short shift. That anyone should be foolish enough to put in a bona fide commercial orchard of trees was thought to he ridiculous.

Van Tassel’s illness eventually crippled him to the extent that he could only walk with difficulty with the aid of two canes. Consequently he contracted tile lying out of the orchard and the planting of seedling trees. He would drive to a mountain ridge paralleling the orchard site and sit by the hour, day after day, waiting through binoculars across a deep valley the progress of his dream taking shape in the distance.

Unfortunately, not being an agricultural man, he did not understand the need for careful planting procedure. The man holding he contract for the installation of the orchard, merely scraped away a two-foot area of brush and grass, dug shallow holes and planted the seedling trees without removing them from the tin cans. Only one result was possible. In two years almost all the trees had failed — it was enough to make a lesser man give up in despair. Disappointed as he was, he arose to the occasion and started all over again the second seedling planting was begun in 1922 and this time the tin cans were removed.

However, for the next 8 or 9 years the trees probably had as rough a time as any commercial orchard ever had. When the writer entered the picture in 1930 the 2,000 trees had grown only two or three feet, were wind blown, and choked with weeds arid were of a very poor color. They had been given no nutrients whatsoever and, of course, had borne no nuts. Some laymen had convinced Van Tassel that the "rich" Hawaiian soils could grow anything and did not need fertilizer. Working on a very tight budget this was welcome information but rather disastrous.

This orchard had not been underway very long before it was felt more plantings would he needed to support the requirements of the potential market. Since this was beyond his financial means, a stock company was formed. Van Tassel negotiated with the Bishop Estate to lease 100 acres in the Keauhou area of Kona, Hawaii, at the 2,000-foot elevation. This was in the rain forest belt with an environment the reverse of the previous orchard area with not only high yearly rainfall but also with much cloud cover and relatively low temperatures. Here the C/N ratio was unbalanced in favor of excessive vegetative growth in contrast to the imbalance in favor of very poor vegetative growth in the former plantings. There were about 7,000 trees in this Keauhou orchard, including a few of the "Rough Shell" variety, which were later top-worked to the superior "Smooth Shell". A Mr. Paul had been hired to install this orchard and though he knew little or nothing about the Macadamia, he did a commendable job.

It is interesting to note that 9 years alter the planting of the first orchard, Dr. Pope stated in his first USDA Bulletin No. 59, November 1929, the following:

"Although it is rather generally thought that the Macadamia is of easy culture, numerous obstacles must be overcome and intricate problems must be solved before the tree can he grown to such an extent that its culture may be considered an established industry in Hawaii

In 1926 the interest in the Macadamia had grown sufficiently to allow Van Tassel to convince the Territorial Legislature that a 5-year land tax moratorium should he placed in effect to stimulate others to plant Macadamia trees. This act became effective January 1, 1927.

Convincing Van Tassel that the trees had to be fed was of prime importance — which the so-called rich volcanic soils were not supplying the nutrients needed. He finally consented to let the writer purchase two 100-pound bags of complete fertilizer. But how much impression could that make on 2,000 trees. Moreover, Van Tassel was ton crippled to go into the orchard to observe things. Since his home was situated within the trees in one corner of the orchard, trees surrounding his home received the entire 200 pounds of fertilizer. Within one year the trees made amazing recovery and the first flowers appeared, settling at once the problem of getting sufficient fertilizer.

By 1935 the trees showed a marked improvement from the program of proper nutrition and general care instituted in 1931. Some trees had started to bear nuts and in anticipation of commercial production, Van Tassel began to provide for mechanical processing equipment.

Frank Anderson was added to the payroll as manager of all processing. He devised and built all the needed processing equipment arid set op a well designed line, which, except for hand culling of discards, handled the nuts mechanically from the time they arrived at the factory with the husks on until they were roasted and vacuum packed in labeled bottles. This was a formidable undertaking since Anderson had nothing to go on except his own ingenuity and determination. While modern equipment has been arrived at through much modification, the basic mechanical principles developed by Anderson remain in effect. The resulting eating quality of the finished product was not only superb but has not been improved upon up to this writing.

Credit for developing the methods and technique for the actual processing of the nut kernel belongs chiefly to the late John C. Ripperton, Chief Chemist of the Hawaii Agricultural Experiment Station. His processing methods were adapted to commercial application by Anderson.

By 1934 the writer had already done much research in the culture and hearings habits of the different trees. While it was unfortunate that except for a very few most of the trees planted to that date were seedlings, they did offer a wealth of material from which clonal selections could he made. There was a very wide range of growth habit, hearing uniformity, root anchorage, nut setting, kernel recovery and quality. While a certain amount of this variation could have teen due to environmental influences, subsequent selections proved the inherent characteristics to be dominant.

At about this time the Federal Government appropriated a relatively large sum of money to the Hawaii Experiment Station for the development of fruits and nuts. Most of these funds were channeled toward research work of the Macadamia because it had reached a stage where much information was needed as soon as possible and there was assurance the results would he profitable.

Dr. John Herbert Beaumont, Senior Horticulturist, had replaced Dr. Pope at his retirement and was quick to see the potential value of the Macadamia and the need for the selection of improved clones. The writer was "loaned" to the Station to start a comprehensive selection program and to further the cultural and processing knowledge of the Macadamia. Under Dr. Beaumont the final selection of improved varieties was made. Asexual propagation was greatly simplified, root anchorage improved and outdoor ground nurseries became standard practice.

From a set of predetermined growth and production standards the writer observed close to 15,000 trees that were hearing nuts at the time. About 400 of these appeared to meet growth and production specifications. These were then subjected to a list of predetermined nut quality standards until a final selection of four significantly improved varieties was attained. Since then other improved varieties have been found and are being used.

After the two orchards planted by Van Tassel began to hear it became increasingly clear that the trees could not continue to support the industry because of low average yield, low kernel ratio to shell and general lack of overall uniformity.

In the late 1930’s the Hawaiian Macadamia Nut Company considered a comprehensive expansion and a survey of all the main islands was made for suitable land for the planting of selected grafted stock. Unfortunately, the Company rectors decided against the outlay of the relatively large amount of money necessary to put it on a firm economic basis. This decision, together with Van Tassel's failing health, spelled the eventual disposal of the Company. The H. L. Dennison family of Hawaii who operated it until 1954 acquired it. When they sold it to a local syndicate. It has since ceased operating and its orchards have been sold to other interests.

The following research conducted in the early years of the orchards proved of great value then and for the future:

While the original commercial project failed, it was the dedication of Van Tassel leading, in effect, a hard core of interested men that made the future success of the Macadamia possible.

In the late 1940’s Castle and Cooke Company became interested in the commercial potential of this exotic nut. The writer served as a consultant in the selection of the site and early establishment of their Keauhou orchard on the Island of Hawaii. Using a wealth of accumulated information and greatly improved selected grafted varieties, a large and well-designed orchard is now producing commercially.

Since then other orchards, both large and small, have been installed by other growers and the industry is well established bringing to fruition Van Tassel’s original dream of contributing something good to Hawaii in his appreciation of the kindness of its people and environment.

In order to be close to his orchard, Van Tassel built his home at the upper end, but within the orchard on Oahu. He christened it "Nutridge" and the Post Office Department and the business world officially recognized it as part of his address. He never married but lived at this combination home and office with his cook and handyman, Nobohara, to whom much credit should be given for the care of the house and grounds and the preparation of the required special diets. His special nurse, Miss Lillian Jonsrud, R.N., devoted the better part of her life to the cause of keeping him well enough and prolonging his life sufficiently that he was able to realize his dream and establish a firm basis from which the industry was to prosper through the efforts of other men, at another time.

* Manager, Hamakua Mill Company, Maunaloa, Molokai, Hawaii—July 1968